Most of Sicily is mild and sunny all winter long, making it a great destination in January or February, when air fares are traditionally at their lowest. During off months, the island can be a truly magical place as you round a curve and come upon a totally deserted castle, church or temple. In the absence of other foreign travelers, you can really feel as though you've suddenly popped through a curtain and found yourself in the fifth century BC. At most restaurants and cafes, you're likely to encounter local residents who have plenty of time and inclination to chat.